How to control the camera from a computer. Controlling a Canon camera from a computer

Greetings to blog readers!
Today I would like to consider one interesting question that subscribers and readers of the blog have already asked about several times. So, can the camera be used as a webcam?

How to use a camera as a webcam?

The question is relevant for those who do not have a webcam on their computer, but want, for example, to chat with friends on Skype. The answer is ambiguous - maybe, but there are a number of conditions for this. Firstly, many modern models are already equipped with a similar operating mode. In order to activate it, you just need to install the drivers, connect the camera with a USB cable to the computer and activate the camera mode.

But in most cases, everything is much more complicated. First of all, you need to check whether your camera has the ability to stream video. To do this, take from the kit that came with your model a cable with tulips for connecting to the TV - on one end it usually has 3 tulips, and on the other is the connector that is intended for audio-video output on the camera - this can be USB, miniJack or some other one.

As a rule, the yellow tulip is responsible for the video - we connect it to the video input on the TV and select AV input as the image source in the TV menu - the camera, of course, must be turned on. If there is no picture, then you will not be able to use this camera as a web camera, since it cannot transmit streaming video.

If a picture from the camera appears on the screen, then you can proceed to the next step and connect it to the computer.

But first you need to make sure that it has a video capture device with a video input that will transfer video to the program. This could be a video card or TV tuner. If there is no tuner, and the video card is not equipped with the necessary video input, then you can purchase a separate video capture device - there are a lot of all kinds of inexpensive models in Chinese online stores.

We connect this device to the USB of the computer, and insert the tulip connector from the cable that came with the camera, which is inserted into the turned on camera.

For Canon cameras there is a separate similar special proprietary utility called PSRemote.

As you can see from the screenshot, you can also select a video file, picture, or broadcast your desktop for playback on the Internet. In addition, the program allows you to apply various cool effects to your video.

After that, in Skype or another video communication application, for example ooVoo, select our application as the outgoing video (“Tools > Settings > Video settings > Select webcam > SplitCam Capture”)

The MoneyCam program works similarly, in which there are even more various effects for overlaying online videos and detailed settings for displaying video images. To launch an image from the camera, go to the “Sources” tab and select our camera.

In Skype, as in the case of SplitCamer, go to the source selection section and activate the ManyCam application as its source.

Or, for example, you can use the program on Facebook:

That's all for today - I hope the question of how to use a camera as a webcam has become not so insoluble for you - go for it!

User reviews

An excellent program for printing photos on documents! Very convenient photo markup, beautiful interface - everything you need. Changing the clothes in the photo works just fine.

Nikolay Biryukov, Moscow

I tried different programs for preparing photographs for documents, but settled on the development of AMS Software. Why? Firstly, the program is very accessible, even the staff does not need special training. Secondly, all the necessary capabilities are present. Thirdly, excellent user support.

Arkady Mikhailov, Novosibirsk

The Canon virtual remote control from AMS Software allows you to solve a number of current problems in automating the photo business, including preparing photos for documents. The Canon camera control program from a computer allows you to:

Photograph, by clicking on a button in the program. In this case, the operator can be with his back to the client or even in another room. The image will be immediately saved to your computer and displayed in the program window.
Take photographs in the usual way by pressing the camera's shutter button. However, done the image is instantly transferred to the computer and opens in the program. This way, you can save a lot of time by starting image processing immediately after taking a photograph.
Open photo for processing in any graphic editor. Immediately after taking a photograph, you can open the image for editing in an external program, such as Adobe Photoshop.
Automate process of preparing photos for documents. The module for controlling a Canon camera from a computer is included in the full version of the program.

The program runs on operating systems Windows 2000, XP, Vista, Windows 7,8,10. Can also be used on laptops.

Canon Camera Virtual Remote supports the following camera models.

Canon DSLRs:

EOS-1D Mark II
EOS 20D
EOS-1Ds Mark II
EOS 350D (Kiss Digital N/REBEL XT)
EOS Mark II
EOS-1D Mark II N
EOS 30D
EOS 400D (Kiss Digital X//REBEL XTi)
EOS-1D Mark III
EOS 40D
EOS-1Ds Mark III
EOS 450D (DIGITAL REBEL Xsi/Kiss X2)
EOS 1000D (DIGITAL REBEL XS/KISS F)
EOS 50D
EOS Mark III
EOS EOS 500D (Kiss X3/EOS REBEL T1i)
EOS 7D
EOS-1D Mark IV
EOS EOS 550D (Kiss X4/EOS REBEL T2i)
EOS EOS 60D
EOS EOS 1100D
EOS EOS 600D

Almost any electronic device, if desired, can be used in an atypical role. This also applies to smartphones, tablets, TVs, computers, cameras, and even ordinary calculators.

If you want to “transform” (conditionally) your gadget into some other device, you need to ask yourself at least one question, but the key one: “Does this really need to be done?” Most of these transformations can negatively affect the basic functionality of the device, which, under certain consequences, can lead to actual failure of operation (when interfering with the structure of the system or physical modifications).

But it’s good that these problems do not relate to the topic discussed in this article. Since below we will provide a small guide on how you can connect your camera to a computer as a web camera, what you need for this, as well as how to make the settings correctly and whether all cameras and computers are suitable for this.

What is needed for this

There are several key points worth noting right away, namely:

The above guide is relevant for cameras (popularly “DSLRs”; digital cameras are not considered in this case) of the mid-price category and/or those that have already left the “modern models” category.

This is due to the fact that the vast majority of modern gadgets have been supplied with the built-in function of working in “web camera” mode for quite a long time.

Older models cannot boast of such functionality.

Connecting a DSLR to a computer and using it for video calls is only possible if it supports video streaming. In other words, the camera must be able to display the resulting image directly on the screen of a receiving device, for example, a TV or monitor.

To check the availability of this functionality, do the following:

Similar “tulips” were supplied with the models whose category was mentioned above. Currently, most cameras are equipped with HDMI support.

Not only the camera must meet the above requirements, but also the computer itself.

The installed video card must be equipped with a corresponding connector for one of the “tulips”, which is responsible for transmitting the video signal.

On well-known Chinese online stores, the cost of such devices is minimal, about 300-500 rubles.

So, taking into account all of the above, it is worth noting that the “transformation” in question is not a “five-minute” matter, as it requires certain monetary costs and time for delivery/receipt.

In addition, you should ask yourself the question again: “Do you really need to do this?” The most ordinary webcam costs the same money as, but does not require other investments or any complex settings. Therefore, it may be worth considering purchasing a specialized device. Question, question...

If your determination has not faded, go to the direct settings for image display and device recognition.

Settings

You need to understand that even if your camera and computer meet all the above requirements, if you simply connect them, nothing useful will come of it.

For correct operation, you will need additional software that creates a virtual webcam, the responsibilities of which will be taken over by your camera.

Quite often, such software is supplied bundled with a TV tuner or other video capture device in the form of an installation disk.

Or you can simply additionally download the free program “SplitCam”, or similar options “ManyCam” and “ActiveWebCam”.

For Canon products there is a proprietary utility called “PSRemote”.

You should first disable shutdown on the camera when idle, and also provide it with a power source if you plan to use it for a long time without interruption.

Conclusion

So, as can be seen from the above small guide, there is nothing complicated in the process discussed in this article. The main thing is desire, a little time and small financial costs.

Tethered photography, or shooting with a computer attached, is a photographic technique that many professional photographers have practiced for many years. In short, the tether allows you to connect your camera to your computer or laptop and almost instantly view your digital images on the device within seconds of shooting. Due to cost and availability, tethered photography has generally been used only by photographers who do a lot of studio work and produce very high quality commercial images. However, these technologies have become much cheaper and easier to use, so they are now used by both professionals and amateurs.

If you've ever been interested in tethered shooting, this article will give you a quick overview of the process, as well as some steps to get you started easily.

Photo by Tyler Ingram

What is “tethered shooting”?

Tethered shooting is the process of connecting your camera to your computer, laptop, or even smartphone using a cable or wireless app. After successfully connecting the devices, all images taken by the camera are immediately sent to the computer and saved in a predefined folder. You can then see the image in full size on your computer screen and even do some post-processing.

Advantages « shooting on leashes»

The main advantage of “tethered shooting” is the ability to quickly view the image on a large monitor within a few seconds after shooting. This allows you and your client to examine the image on the big screen and make any necessary adjustments if needed. Depending on the software you use to connect the devices, you may even be able to do some editing. You and your client can see exactly how the subject is photographed and ensure that your vision for the shoot matches. Overall, this type of collaboration should lead to a better outcome.

Disadvantages of “tethered filming”

The ability to instantly view photos has several disadvantages.

First, you or your client may become too focused on small details while studying the image, which will slow down the photo shoot. Thus, it is important to meet your client's expectations while moving forward without focusing too much on the details. Secondly, tethering can drain the battery power of the camera and the connected computer. If your photo shoot will last longer than an hour, you will need additional batteries and a nearby outlet. Finally, connection software can be finicky and refuse to work for no apparent reason, so you'll need a backup plan in case it fails.

What you'll need for tethered shooting

The traditional and most reliable way to connect a camera to a computer is to use a cable. There are many different cables and ports available, so which one to use will depend on the model of device you are using. Some digital cameras with built-in Wi-Fi even offer wireless connectivity or remote shooting, but these are typically limited to use on a tablet or mobile device rather than a laptop.

1. A very long (i.e. 4-5 meters) USB cable to connect the camera and laptop;

2. Software like Adobe Lightroom or Canon EOS Utility 3;

3. Additionally – JerkStopper, to prevent accidental pulling out of the USB cable.

4. Optional – a portable laptop table like Tether Tools’ Aero Table

Tether Table Aero is a lightweight, durable aluminum platform that attaches to almost any tripod or stand, making it a convenient table for your laptop or additional camera gear.

To be clear, there are many programs available for connecting your computer and camera, but in this article we'll look at two inexpensive and easy options: Adobe Lightroom and EOS Utility 3.

Simple “tethered shooting” withLightroom

The fastest and probably easiest way to get started with tethered photography is to use Adobe Lightroom's Tethered Capture feature. Follow these steps to set it up:

Step 1 – Connect the camera to your laptop

Connect your camera to your laptop using a USB cable. Then turn on the camera.

Step2 - Launch Tethered Capture in Lightroom

Open Lightroom and go to File > Remote Camera Control > Start Remote Shooting.

Step 3 – select settings

In the Remote Shooting Options dialog box, you have the option to specify a Shoot Name (for example, "Remote Shoot Test" by specifying photo titles, choosing file locations, and adding metadata and keywords. Pay close attention to where your files will be saved so that you could find them later. Once you have configured all the settings, click OK.

If everything is done correctly, a narrow control panel will appear on the screen (highlighted in red below) for some remote shooting settings, as well as a Library in which remote shooting photos will be placed.

However, difficulties with finding a camera for Lightroom are not at all uncommon. If you have followed all the steps above and are still seeing the notification below, then try to resolve the issue by first making sure your Lightroom version and camera firmware are up to date. Also, check to see if your camera is compatible with remote shooting in Lightroom. Note: There are plugins from other developers for incompatible cameras such as the Fuji X-T1, do a search for your camera model and you may find a solution.

Finally, try a different USB cable and make sure it works. But if you're looking for a more stable way to shoot remotely, consider the other option below.

Reliable “tethered shooting” withEOS Utility 3

If you shoot with a Canon digital camera, take the CD that came with it and install EOS Utility 3 on your computer. Once the camera is connected to your computer, you can use this program to control the camera remotely and take pictures. This method is much more reliable and stable than using remote shooting in Lightroom.

Breeze Systems Limited, founded by Chris Breeze, has been developing software for managing digital cameras and various applications for organizing and processing digital photos for over 17 years. The other day, one of the most popular programs released by this company was updated - DSLR Remote Pro was released under number 2.2.1. This program allows full control of Canon SLR cameras using a computer (there are versions for Mac and Win), which are connected using a USB or FireWire cable. An analogue of NKRemote v2.2 (supports Windows only) has been developed for Nikon camera owners; there is also a PSRemote program for Canon PowerShot compacts. Since the author of these lines has a Canon SLR camera and Windows is installed on his laptop, this article will discuss working in the program for Win. Nikon camera owners will be able to get a general impression of this program, and all additional information about compatibility with their equipment can always be found on the official Breeze Systems website.

Compatible with camera models

Of course, in order to control the camera from a computer, you need to be the owner of a camera that supports “live viewing” mode, that is, Live View. And all the latest models of DSLRs from Canon are provided with this function: this Canon EOS 7D, 60D, 50D, 5D Mark II, 550D, 500D, 1000D, 450D, 40D, as well as professional models. All of these cameras are fully compatible with DSLR Remote Pro and will allow you to use all of its features. However, cameras that were released earlier and do not support Live View, for example my Canon EOS 30D, can also be controlled using the program, only many functions will not be available. For a complete list of compatible cameras, see the official website of the program developer.

DSLR Remote Pro for Windows will run Win 7 (32-bit only on some models), Vista (32-bit only, and not on all models), XP or 2000, while the Mac version will require OS X 10.4 (Tiger), OS X 10.5 (Leopard) or OS X 10.6 (Snow Leopard).

Screenshot 1. Main window of the DSLR Remote Pro program

Key Features of DSLR Remote Pro

Controlling Canon SLR digital cameras using a computer. In the screenshot, 1 panel to the left of the photo allows you to change shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance and other parameters
Shooting video clips on a camera memory card (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, 5D Mark II, 7D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D and 1100D)
Display images on the computer screen in real time (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, EOS-1D Mark III, EOS-1Ds Mark III, 5D Mark II, 7D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D, 450D, 1100D and 1000D)
Autofocus, as well as manual focus adjustment from a computer (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, Canon EOS-1D Mark III, EOS-1Ds Mark III, 5D Mark II, 7D, 40D, 50D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D, 450D, 1100D and 1000D)
Camera control in video mode, including focusing, capturing video and uploading clips to a computer (Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, 5D Mark II, 7D, 60D, 600D, 550D, 500D and 1100D)
“Photobooth” mode: automatic shooting of a series of photos at specified intervals with specified parameters, followed by automatic printing on a printer (both several photos on a sheet, and one photo per sheet, which is also customizable) - an excellent solution for reporting from corporate events, weddings and other celebrations. The mode only works with JPEG format
View high-resolution photos in full screen immediately after taking the frame
Ability to view footage while the camera continues to take pictures
Tools for fans of automatic shooting at specified time intervals (Time Lapse), such as shooting a sunset or a flower blooming
View photos in color or black and white
Automatic HDR shooting with bracketing - up to 15 frames in a series with varying shutter speed or aperture
Integration with Photomatix Pro for automatic stitching of HDR shots
Record photos directly to your computer's hard drive

On the big screen you can display:

Flashing overexposure zones
A grid over the image, and the grid parameters can be configured by the user
B&W mode
Overlaying the focus point on the image

Practice using the DSLR Remote Pro program

I repeat - since I have a Canon 30D DSLR, which is only partially supported by the program, some of the functions for me will remain “behind the scenes”, not implemented. Of course, controlling the photography process from a computer will first of all be convenient in order to view the future frame not on a tiny camera screen, but on the large display of a laptop or desktop. This way you can perfectly align the future frame with the grid, notice in time light exposure, foreign objects in the frame, etc. Surely every amateur photographer has wondered: why is my screen so small, if only it were bigger! My camera does not have Live View mode, and is not trained to shoot video, so I focused on those few functions of the program that are available to me.

Configuring program options

Before you start working with the program, you need to configure some of its options. Oddly enough, the default values, which are shown in screenshot 2, completely satisfied me, and there are not so many settings themselves. I only changed the folder where the program will put the photo files. By the way, I still haven’t found the “Record photos to the camera’s memory card” checkbox, that is, all photos are automatically copied directly to the computer’s hard drive, bypassing the camera’s memory card.

HDR shooting

Since I love experimenting with HDR shooting, I started exploring this option first. Everything is simple here: you need to set the camera mode to M, RAW, AWB, ISO 100 for minimal noise, select the correct shutter speed for the desired aperture, the value of which is selected from the expected depth of field, I chose F11. Next, focus (you can use autofocus by half-pressing, or in manual mode), then turn off autofocus with the switch on the lens and connect the camera to the computer. This completes the camera setup.

Now you can proceed to setting up the program. Screenshots 3 and 4 show bracketing settings for HDR shooting. In the first list you can select the number of frames (I usually did 3 or 5; more is simply not needed for shooting outdoors in my opinion), and in the second - the exposure shift step (I chose 1 stop). After which you should definitely select the option to change the shutter speed (Shutter speed) so that the aperture is always constant to achieve the best depth of field. If you want to experiment, try changing the aperture... something tells me that little good will come out of this, but who knows!

Photo 5. A simple diagram of connecting a computer to a camera.
Filmed on a phone, since the camera was busy at the moment :-)

The camera is installed on a tripod, configured and connected to the computer, it’s time to press the F8 button and enjoy the result. Photos are taken with a delay of about 3 seconds, after another couple of seconds they already appear on the computer display. Photo 5 was taken on a phone, and also against the sun, so only the reflection of the assistant was displayed on the computer screen (Sasha, hello!), and not the program’s workspace, as I had hoped.

I couldn’t resist and decided to stitch together the HDR on the spot in Photoshop CS5. The laptop battery died immediately, as soon as I managed to save my work :-) I believe that the technical side of the work is now clear. The question remains - and who would think of it On a clear, fine day, you can carry a tripod, a camera and a computer for a walk, and even strain your companion with requests for help... You can handle such a pile of equipment alone, there’s nothing complicated here, but it’s inconvenient! The USB cord is short, so you have to hold the computer in your hands.

But the camera remains completely motionless during HDR shooting, which is very important for accurately merging exposures. This scheme of work is more suitable for shooting the interiors of rooms where there is no rush, where it is possible to put the laptop on a chair or stool. And the accuracy indoors will be amazing - the camera is motionless. Comfortable! And the result will be visible on the laptop screen, plus everything indoors will certainly be 220 volts.

This scheme is also suitable for shooting a series of photographs at intervals, say, for editing a video of equipment assembly, a sunset, a flower blooming, for the purpose of protecting a store at night :-). Surely everyone has seen videos like this, and they are filmed exactly this way, it’s called Time Lapse. The only problem is that you need a very powerful laptop battery (or a 220V generator?) to film something like this in nature. There is a special cable for the camera that allows you to do this operation without a computer, and besides, no one has canceled a simple stopwatch! There would be a desire, wouldn't it?

One thing I can say for sure is that such an action attracts the general attention of passing vacationers. And getting a blessing for fiddling with a laptop and a tripod inside the temple will be almost impossible, I tried:-(And what a piercing photo I missed, looking at the rays of the sun that created stunningly beautiful lighting inside the Church of St. John Chrysostom in the St. Nicholas Monastery in Staraya Ladoga! I love this beauty with all my heart, but I am forbidden to take a photo...

Integration with Photomatix Pro program

If anyone decides to shoot HDR using a computer, it will be extremely convenient to integrate the DSLR Remote Pro program with another program created specifically for HDR stitching - Photomatix Pro. I like everything about this program, except for the most important thing - today Photomatix Pro cannot work correctly with moving objects in frames, which I have repeatedly noted in my articles on the topic of HDR. And Photoshop CS5 can do this with amazing accuracy.

By the way, almost nowhere in the help for the DSLR Remote Pro program does it say anything about how to set up this very integration. Google and forums helped me figure out this problem. Pay attention to screenshots 3 and 4 - there is a checkmark at the bottom and a bat file is registered. If you have Photomatix Pro installed, do the same and everything will work.

The output is a stitched HDR with default settings and a *.hdr file, which you can later open in Photomatix Pro and edit at your discretion. Anyone interested in tinkering with scripts is welcome: by editing the bat file, finer-tuning of the gluing parameters is possible.

Photobooth mode

This tool only works with the JPEG format and is designed for automatic shooting and subsequent gluing of contact sheets and collages. Here are the tool settings options:

The only practical use I could think of for this feature was that if you put the camera on a tripod in a corner somewhere at a company party, you could get prints of fun photo collages that the camera would make with this program.

There is another feature of the Photobooth tool - shooting a portrait against a green screen. You hang up a green screen, turn on this mode and make faces in front of the lens. The program will automatically cut out the green background from the resulting images and replace it with any image of your choice. Auto collage!

We can only hope that if serious programmers from a serious company have devoted so much attention and time to this tool, it means that someone needs it and is in demand by someone. I didn’t bother to deal with him.

Some conclusions

Pros

Lightweight, fast and self-sufficient a program for controlling a camera from a computer, which is significantly superior in its functions to most well-known analogues.
Stable, glitch-free operation even on a weak laptop.
Supports most modern DSLRs, there is also a version for PowerShot compacts.
Integration with Photomatix Pro. You can set the photo to automatically open after shooting in any other program, but automatic HDR merging is only available in conjunction with Photomatix Pro.

Cons

No file browser. They filmed the episode, closed the program - everything previously filmed in it will no longer be possible to watch.
No thumbnail view, only rewind and forward within the current photo shoot. In parallel with the program, you also have to open a photo browser (for example ACDSee Pro 4) in order to navigate through the footage.
No photo zoom within the active window. You won't be able to look pixel by pixel.
Price. The program is by no means free - the Windows version of DSLR Remote Pro costs $175. By the way, Canon releases its own programs that are completely free for DSLR owners (for example, ZoomBrowser EX); but these programs only allow you to do a small part of what the DSLR Remote Pro can do.

Resume

I shoot a lot of objects, and it’s extremely convenient for me to control the camera from a computer: I don’t have to constantly move the flash drive back and forth, copy something, open... I took it and immediately saw the result on the large (compared to the camera screen) laptop screen , and the files are already neatly placed in the desired folder. Beauty!
Personally, I'm not willing to pay $175 for this. I have Lightroom 3, which allows me to do almost everything, except shoot HDR, of course.

© Compilation of the review, all photographs in the article, Konstantin Birzhakov, May 12, 2011
Based on materials from the official website of Breeze Systems
The author of the review cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of information taken from open sources.
Any reprint only with the written permission of the review author.