How to properly charge a new smartphone battery. Battery calibration on Android with ROOT rights

Enough time has passed since the days when Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries have reigned supreme in mobile devices, but since the beginning of the era of Li-ion and Li-pol, there has been ongoing debate about whether these batteries need to be “trained” immediately after purchase.
It’s getting ridiculous, in the ZP100 discussion thread on china-iphone, all newbies were recommended in an orderly tone to go through 10 charge-discharge cycles, and only then come with questions about batteries.

Let's try to figure out whether such a recommendation has the right to life, or whether these are reflexes of the spinal cord (in the absence of the brain, probably) of some individuals who have them left over from the times of nickel batteries.

The text can and most likely contains spelling, punctuation, grammatical and other types of errors, including semantic ones. The author will be grateful for information about them (of course, in private, and even better with the help of this wonderful extension), but does not guarantee their elimination.

About terminology

About reading datasheets

A datasheet for the battery was found on Google, consisting of one page:


I'll decipher what is written there.
I think what is it Nominal capacity And Minimum capacity everyone understands - an ordinary container, and minimum capacity. The designation 0.2 C means that it reaches such a capacity only if it is discharged with a current of 0.2 of its capacity - 720 * 0.2 = 144 mA.
Charding voltage And Nominal Voltage- Charging voltage and operating voltage are also simple and clear.
But the next point is more difficult - Charging.
Method: CC/CV- Means that the first half of the charging process must be maintained D.C.(it is listed below, 0.5C is standard - i.e. 350mA, and 1C is maximum - 700mA). And after the battery voltage reaches 4.2V, you need to set constant voltage, the same 4.2v.
Point below - Standard Discharge, Discharge. They suggest discharging with current from 0.5C - 350mA and up to 2C - 1400mA up to a voltage of 3V. Manufacturers are lying - at such currents the capacity will be lower than declared.
The maximum discharge current is precisely determined internal resistance. But it is necessary to distinguish between the maximum discharge current and the maximum permissible. If the first can be 5A, or even more, then the second is strictly specified - no more than 1.4A. This is due to the fact that at such high discharge currents the battery begins to irreversibly deteriorate.
Next comes information about weight and operating temperature: charging from 0 to 45 degrees, discharging from -20 to 60. Storage temperature: from -20 to 45 degrees, usually with a charge of 40% -50%.
The lifetime is promised to be at least 300 cycles (full discharge-charge with a current of 1C) at a temperature of 23 degrees. This does not mean that after 300 cycles the battery will turn off and will not turn on again, no. The manufacturer simply guarantees that the battery capacity will not decrease after 300 cycles. And then - how lucky you are, depends on the currents, temperature, operating conditions, batch, position of the moon, and so on.

About charging

The standard method by which all lithium batteries are charged (li-pol, li-ion, lifepo, only the currents and voltages are different) is CC-CV, mentioned above.
At the very beginning of the charge, we maintain a constant current. This is usually done using a scheme with feedback in the charger - the voltage is automatically selected so that the current passing through the battery is equal to the required one.
As soon as this voltage becomes equal to 4.2 volts (for the described battery), such a current cannot be maintained any longer - the voltage on the battery will increase too much (we remember that you cannot exceed operating voltage lithium batteries) and it may become hot and even explode.
But now the battery is not fully charged - usually 60% -80%, and to charge the remaining 40% -20% without explosions, the current must be reduced.
The easiest way to do this is to maintain a constant voltage on the battery, and it will take the current it needs. When this current decreases to 30-10 mA, the battery is considered charged.
To illustrate all of the above, I colored in Photoshop and prepared a charge graph taken from an experimental battery:


On the left side of the graph, highlighted in blue, we see a constant current of 0.7A while the voltage gradually rises from 3.8V to 4.2V. It can also be seen that during the first half of the charge the battery reaches 70% of its capacity, while during the remaining time it reaches only 30%

About testing technology

The following battery was chosen as a test battery:


An Imax B6 was connected to it (I wrote about it here):


Which downloaded information about charge and discharge to the computer. The graphs were created in LogView.
Then I just came up every few hours and alternately switched on the charge and discharge.

About the results

As a result of painstaking work (try it yourself for 2 weeks), two graphs were obtained:


As its name implies, it shows the change in battery capacity over the first 10 cycles. It floats a little, but the fluctuations are about 5% and have no trend. In general, the battery capacity does not change. All points were taken with a discharge current of 1C (0.7A), which corresponds to the active operation of the smartphone.
Two of the three points at the end of the graph show how the capacity changes at low battery temperatures. The last one is how the capacitance changes when discharged with a high current. The following graph describes this:


Shows that the greater the discharge current, the less energy can be obtained from the battery. Although, here's a joke, even at the smallest current of 100 mA, the battery capacity does not correspond to the datasheet. Everyone lies.

Although no, a battery test from Mugen Power at 1900mAh for Zopo ZP100 showed quite honest almost-two-amps:

But the Chinese 5000mAh battery only scored 3000:

About the conclusions

  1. Training single cell lithium batteries is pointless. Not harmful, but wastes battery life cycles. In mobile devices, training cannot even be justified by the operation of the controller - the battery parameters are the same and do not change depending on the model and time. The only thing that an insufficient discharge can affect is the accuracy of the charge indicator readings (but not the operating time), but for this, one complete discharge every six months is enough.
    Again. If you have a player, phone, walkie-talkie, PDA, tablet, dosimeter, multimeter, watch or any other mobile device that uses Li-Ion battery or Li-Pol (if it is removable, it will be written on it, if it is not removable, then 99% is lithium) - “training” longer than one cycle is useless. One cycle is also most likely useless.
    If you have a battery for controlled models, then the first few cycles must be discharged with low currents (small, hehe. For them, small is 3-5C. This is actually one and a half amperes at 11 volts. And the operating currents there are up to 20C). Well, anyone who uses these batteries knows. But for everyone else, this will not be useful, except for general development.
  2. In some cases, when using batteries with multiple banks, a full discharge-charge can increase capacity. In laptop batteries, if the manufacturer skimped on a smart battery controller that does not balance the banks in serial connection with each charge, full cycle can increase capacity by next couple cycles. This happens due to voltage equalization on all banks, which leads to their fully charged. Several years ago I came across laptops with such controllers. I don't know now.
  3. Don't trust what's on the labels. Especially Chinese. In the last topic I provided a link in which there is a huge test Chinese batteries I did not find a single one whose capacity corresponded to the inscription. NOT ONE! They always overestimate. And if they don’t overestimate it, they guarantee the capacity only in greenhouse conditions and when discharging with low current.
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Modern smartphones last on battery power for about 1-2 days with average usage. If you run on them gaming applications, watch movies and turn on other resource-intensive applications, operating time in offline mode will decrease to a day, and sometimes even less. Therefore, the issue of increasing the mobility of smartphones is quite acute. To get a small increase in battery capacity, it is often used to pump it up and periodically calibrate it. Let's figure out what this means.

Battery boost controversy modern gadgets don't subside. Swinging refers to several cycles full discharge and then charge the battery to 100%. The need for this procedure arose at a time when batteries were widely used in electronics. These types of batteries had a pronounced “memory effect”.

If they are not discharged, then during the next charge-discharge cycle they give up less capacity, and so on with incomplete discharge. For them, the buildup was necessary. Nowadays, lithium batteries are widely used in smartphones:

  • Lithium-ion (Li-Ion);
  • Lithium polymer (Li-Pol).

They do not have a “memory effect” as pronounced as alkaline batteries. Therefore, the question arises: why should they do the buildup? But practice shows that pumping up and periodically calibrating lithium smartphones allows you to slightly increase the capacity they use.

The pumping itself is very simple and is done on a new battery. After purchasing a new gadget or smartphone, you need to do 3-4 cycles of complete discharge and subsequent charging. There is no need to specifically discharge your smartphone, but simply use it until it turns off and then put it on charge.

After this, during use, put the phone on charge when the battery charge level drops to 15-20%. After full set capacity, try not to keep the phone on charge. It will be optimal use smartphone batteries. Periodically (every 1-2 months) calibrate the battery as described below. At the same time, you can check the actual battery capacity. This is written about in the link.

Calibrating a smartphone battery is a useful procedure that allows you to make the most of its capacity. What steps do you need to follow to calibrate the battery of your phone or other gadget?

  • First you need to discharge the battery “to zero” so that it turns itself off;
  • After that, charge it in the off state;
  • Pull out battery for 1-2 minutes and insert it back again. Do not turn on the smartphone;
  • Place your phone on charge again without turning it on. It is quite possible that it will show a charge level of less than 100%;
  • Charge again to the end and repeat until the difference disappears.

This calibration allows the smartphone to access the entire battery capacity. Statistics show that the increase in capacity can range from 10 to 30 percent. It goes without saying that this procedure is not suitable for smartphone models with built-in batteries. You can also read information about and.

How to increase the battery life of your smartphone?

Now some tips on how to extend the battery life of your smartphone. After all, if the charge is not used rationally, then all efforts to calibrate and build up will be reduced to zero.

  • Reduce the brightness of your smartphone display slightly. After all, the main drain of battery energy is the display. Of course, you don't want to turn the brightness down so much that it becomes uncomfortable for your eyes;
  • Kill processes that are constantly running on your smartphone in background. If you understand what you are doing, you can do it manually. If not, then there is special utilities for Android, which allow you to disable unnecessary applications,interfaces. As a result, the system will be unloaded, and there will be fewer calls to the CPU and memory. As a result, battery energy will be consumed less intensively;
  • Try not to stay for a long time in places where there is no connection. Otherwise, the phone will constantly search for the network, and before you know it, the battery will run out. If you have to be in such a place for a long time, then just turn off your phone. After all, no one will get through to you there anyway;
  • Remove the battery from the smartphone and clean the contacts. Dirt, dust, and oxides often accumulate on them. Because of this, the battery resistance increases and the charging time increases;
  • It is best to keep your smartphone at room temperature. Under the influence of low and high temperatures electrochemical processes in lithium battery are violated. This leads to loss of capacity and battery discharge. Heating is simply dangerous for this type of battery;
  • To increase the mobility of your gadget, you can buy external battery for smartphone. There are many different capacities and sizes available for all smartphones.

If your phone's battery has completely become unusable, try studying it and trying the recommendations from this article.

On some smartphones you can still find non-removable batteries. An example is the Nexus 5 by LG. With such devices, the calibration procedure is more problematic. And yet, ? The answer to this question is in the material at the link.

But in most cases, “non-removable” only means that it cannot be easily removed. If you use a screwdriver and other tools, the built-in battery can be removed in a few minutes. This may be required if the battery wears out and needs to be replaced with a new one.

It is well known that autonomous operation gadget running Android OS is very limited in time. Usually this is a day or two with average intensity of use, after which recharging is required. Many people have heard about the so-called battery overclocking, so immediately after purchase or during operation they think about how to overclock the battery on Android. According to the opinion rooted in the user environment, this can significantly extend the life of a very important product. mobile device power supply.

What is overclocking

Battery overclocking is a procedure of several full charge-discharge cycles aimed at improving its performance. At the same time, in theory, the service life of the battery itself should increase.

Why is this necessary?

Disputes about the need to boost the batteries of modern gadgets still do not subside. The fact is that the procedure was considered mandatory in the era of nickel batteries, for which it definitely worked. The so-called memory effect greatly reduced the charging capabilities from cycle to cycle, and the build-up neutralized this process. WITH lithium batteries the situation has changed. They are not subject to this effect, but in the user and even part of the expert community the question of how to boost the battery on Android to the maximum is still being discussed.

Unlike other experts, Google experts do not consider this procedure mandatory. Moreover, research in this area shows that it is a full discharge that kills the battery faster. If you constantly wait for your smartphone to turn off, the number of cycles decreases at a catastrophic rate.

Pre-overclocking

Pre-boosting is the calibration of the battery before use. It is believed that the battery performance in this case improves by an average of 10-30%. This is a lot for the user, so the number of convinced supporters of the build-up is not decreasing. It is actually impossible to verify the correctness of such statements, so most of us decide to play it safe. Extra cycles are unlikely to do much harm, but faith works wonders!

If you take into account the need for the procedure, you should:

  1. Fully charge and discharge your smartphone several times (three or four, some recommend up to five).
  2. After the last charge, turn it off charger, wait 10-20 seconds and do hard reset gadget.

After this, you can use it without restrictions, and perform a single full charge-discharge once every three months.

How can you replace rocking?

We told you how to boost the battery on Android. A reasonable alternative to this harsh treatment of the battery is:

Actually, that's all. All that remains is to buy a more powerful battery.

How to calibrate the battery

Calibrating, or training the battery, in theory, should help the built-in BSM controller determine and remember the limits of the capacity range. In this case, in theory, the battery will provide 100% power. To do this you need:

  • Discharge the battery before turning off.
  • Without turning it on, fully charge the device.
  • Remove (if possible) for a couple of minutes and reinsert the battery.
  • Put it on charge again (perhaps the level will be less than 100%).

The operation should be repeated until the difference in charge disappears.

In more detail, all the intricacies of the procedure for non-separable devices can be found in our article “How to calibrate the battery on Android”.

Android fast charging

Charging speed is especially important under time pressure. If you have a working outlet and charger nearby, you can quickly raise the charge of your smartphone from a critical level. It just needs to be charged when turned off. Usually only half an hour is enough to charge up to 50%. Other recommendations on this topic are outlined in our article “How to quickly charge your Android phone.”

As a tip: buy Power Bank. It will not help charge the gadget faster, but it will allow you to do it on the go. It is also advisable to have a cigarette lighter charger in the car.

Android battery testing

Doubts about the performance of a smartphone's battery appear in the first year of use. Battery status assessment can be performed in different ways: visually, software, using measuring equipment. The process depends on the container and takes an hour and a half. All methods are described in more detail in the article “Battery test on Android”.

Most convenient for the user special programs for evaluation real capacity batteries that are included in Google Play. Express testing can also be carried out using the Nova Battery Tester application, which is available on the Internet.

How to restore, boost and properly charge your phone battery: Video

Perhaps we need to start from afar. First, you should figure out whether battery boosting is generally necessary on modern mobile phones and other portable equipment, because the iPhone 5 battery is not NiMH and NICd batteries, the buildup of which was due to their chemical composition. You can find many opinions on this question on the Internet. If you describe all the furious verbal battles in three words, it will come out: “Yes,” “No,” and “It won’t hurt.” Extreme liberalism has never led to anything good results, so let's choose golden mean and in our reasoning we will adhere to the third opinion.

Another point that is worth mentioning before moving on to the description of the pumping process itself is the quality and strength of the batteries. No matter how high-quality and expensive the mobile phone itself is, the battery is its most weak point, like any other equipment: the batteries of laptops and tablets are no less vulnerable. And even if you use it correctly, sooner or later you will still face the problem of replacing a battery that has become unusable. Although, whether this will happen sooner or later depends entirely on the owner of the device.

And one more important point: it makes sense to upgrade the battery for an iPhone only immediately after purchase. And if, for example, iPhone battery 4S, your charge has become poor after several months of use, then it’s easier to buy it at https://gmart.com.ua/parts/originalnyy-akkumulyator-iphone-4s.html, although, of course, this should only be done after exclusion all other reasons leading to rapid discharge.

Now, with a light heart, you can proceed to the question posed in the title: “How to boost the iPhone battery?” By the way, in the same way you can calibrate iPad battery. So, take note. An increase in the number of operating cycles is definitely guaranteed to you, especially if you do not trust the charge indicator in iOS too much, the value of which in most cases initially diverges from reality, and perform this procedure periodically, and not just once after purchase.

Stages of the process of boosting and calibrating the battery of Apple smartphones:

  • You need to completely discharge the battery mobile phone. In order for it to turn off faster, you can simultaneously turn on maximum quantity functions and applications, increase the volume and set the display brightness to maximum. Typically, a new smartphone battery is 50-70% charged, so it won’t take much time to completely discharge.
  • After the phone is discharged, charge it through the original charger to 100% and leave it on the cord for 1-2 hours.
  • Expose everything iPhone features on standard mode and use until the battery is completely discharged.
  • Do the second step two or three times (completely discharge and after fully charging, do not disconnect the phone from the power supply for 1-2 hours).

In the case when constant preventive maintenance of the battery condition no longer helps and the operating time on it without recharging tends to zero, you will need to replace the original battery with a new one, the purchase of which must also be approached with full responsibility. It’s better to pay more, but buy an original battery, or at least a high-quality copy of it, and not some budget analogue.

A laptop battery is what a heart is to a person! Without it, the equipment will not work. No, of course you can from the network, but the convenience is not the same. Rocking up, or more correctly calibration, is necessary when starting to use a new laptop or when replacing old battery to a new one.

Battery calibration (strengthening) is the procedure of completely discharging and then charging the laptop battery. This process may not make the battery more or less capable, but it does adjust the battery charge controller to the extremes of charge and discharge so your battery will perform at its maximum capacity. When buying a new battery for your laptop, be careful, as the batteries are different for each model and have their own parameters. Just search exact copy old battery or equivalent. To replace old battery, first you need to completely discharge it, then carefully and carefully remove it from the laptop. Then install it in the same position and fix it new battery.


Next is the buildup process itself. We turn on our laptop. If the battery has even a small charge, then the first thing you need to do is use it completely, that is, discharge the battery completely. There is no need to recharge it, as this will negatively affect the batteries. Complete discharge can be achieved by turning on music or video. Wait until the laptop turns off - this will indicate that the charge is completely exhausted. Modern laptops may not turn off, but go into a hibernation state - in this case, hibernation is turned off manually, otherwise the battery will not be completely discharged.


But now we put our laptop, or rather the battery, on charge, maybe overnight. It is recommended to repeat this process 2-3 times when using the battery for the first time.


This process This is mainly carried out at the beginning of the operation of a new battery; if in the future there are no problems or questions when using the battery, then the pumping process can be repeated once every six months as a preventive measure. If during operation you often undercharge the battery, then pumping can be done more often, but not more than once a month.


When installing a new battery on your laptop, make sure to properly dispose of the old battery! Don't pollute environment– hand over to special recycling points.